Sri Lanka Day 8: Tissa to Ella and Ella Rock
- Will Boddington
- Nov 28, 2017
- 4 min read
Janaka very kindly sorted us out with a tuk tuk to make sure we caught the 9am direct bus to Ella. The tuk tuk driver also turned out to be the conductor on the bus! Two hours later we arrived in Ella. Our first impression was that it seemed more touristy than the other places we have been, but there was still the local feel as it was still a village and not a tourist resort. We dropped our bags off at our guest house (Forest Home Stay) and headed back into town to explore. We had read about a cave temple and a waterfall worth visiting so that’s where we started heading to first - the Ravana Cave. There was a ‘permission’ sign on the gate with an arrow towards a little hut. We spoke to the gentleman there who said it was 150rs each to enter the cave which goes towards the preservation of the ancient cave. We paid the charge and read about the story behind the cave in the ticket, and started our ascent up the steps to the cave. Towards the end of the climb it did become that - a climb. It became very steep and nearly required all fours. A little out of breath and with tired legs we arrived at a rather small cave, with some local graffiti on the walls...
Rather disappointing, but it was a good workout up all the steps. We then headed towards Rawana waterfall, where we struggled to find the path. We got to the stream at the bottom of the fall with no clear way up, so we headed back and around a bit and started to follow what we hoped to be the right way. After climbing yet more steps we came across a seemingly kind local who said we were going the long way around and guided us the short way. It seemed a bit off the beaten track and then we came across a farm where we were then told it was 200rs to cross around his land. We explained that we had no money on us and in the end he let us pass free of charge. We then reached the bottom of the waterfall but yet again there seemed to be no footpaths. After questioning going back past the farm or to try and find another route back, we decided to climb up the waterfall.
We found a path! As far up as we could get (about half way) we came across a footpath - not sure where it was heading but it had to be better than the route we had just come, so we followed it. We passed a signpost charging 200rs for entrance to the waterfall, written on a small piece of wood and spelt incorrectly - not too convincing, but we walked on quickly just in case.
We reached a train track (which seems to double up as a footpath in all of Sri Lanka) where some locals were sitting looking at the view. They asked us where we were heading at which we shrugged and said we were just having a walk. They suggested Ella Rock and pointed us in the direction, and, not knowing what we had just committed to, we headed in that direction... We passed a couple of stands selling water, but we had bought a bottle with us in the bag so we headed past. Then the path seemed to start to hit junctions in the middle of the farms. Using maps on our phones we tried our best to choose the correct route and with the helpful guidance from locals and the stands we progressed. We then made another wrong turn and a friendly local walked us back to the right path where we walked what could only be 20 yards more before he shouted at us to say we had gone wrong, so we came back and followed him up back 15 yards and up a small turning, then through some small farmland where he started to point out what was being grown (chillies, tea, etc). He continued to guide us up the hill, and us assuming it must only be around the corner, we followed. We continued this for about an hour and a half by which point we had ran out of water and were really hoping it now was just around the corner...
We finally reached it, took some photos and our guide then said that this wasn’t Ella Rock, just a view point that the locals come to. Ella Rock was only a further 10 minutes walk, where it was rather windy and we took some more photos and admired the view.
As it was getting late, we were tired and out of water, we couldn’t admire the view for too long before we started our decent, which was quicker - but steeper.
We finally got back to the rail track where we thanked the man and asked why he was so helpful, and offered him 500rs for his help - but he seemed to shrug and then explain that a guide would normally cost 4000rs and asked us for 3000rs. Being very tired and dry mouthed we weren’t too amused - if this was explained before he’d helped we could’ve come to an agreed amount but he helped without us asking. Feeling bad that he was unhappy with our gesture, but still annoyed that he had tried to ask for what we later found out to be about double what a guide would usually charge, we gave him the intended 500rs and followed the rail track back to the town in our torchlight.
Finally back in the town, we stopped in ‘Cafe Crave’ for some food and a lot of water before heading back to our accommodation, where we read about Ella Rock and found out it recommends a guide due to the paths being hard to follow...
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